Jade is one of the most misunderstood gems in the world. Few jewelers or gem dealers have a clue about the stone, yet it is they who must explain the goods to their customers.
Asian cultures have revered this gem as a symbol of protection and have sought jade for centuries. Confucius believed jade had 11 virtues, including benevolence, fidelity, polite etiquette and sincerity. To Taoists, jade was edible and could make one physically immortal. In Buddhism, the Pure Land is composed of gold, silver, agate, coral, amber and jade.
In the West, few but true jadeite connoisseurs have ever seen this fascinating gem in its top qualities. Most people see an opaque, olive-green nephrite in jewelry stores and think of this as jade. Few realize that top green jadeite resembles the finest Colombian emeralds and can sell for thousands of dollars per carat or more. Many exquisite pieces have recently sold at auction for millions of dollars. For example, the “Doubly Fortunate” necklace, of 27 approximately 15-millimeter jadeite beads, sold for $9.4 million in November 1997 at Christie’s Hong Kong. The cost per bead works out to approximately $350,000!
Nephrite vs. Jadeite
In 1863, a mineralogist named Damour discovered the difference between jadeite and nephrite. Jade refers collectively to two different minerals: jadeite and nephrite. The two have different physical and chemical characteristics. They also have their own unique crystal structures, colors, specific gravities, refractive indexes and hardness.
Interestingly, jadeite and nephrite are graded in reverse. The best nephrite, also known as water jade, is clear and white. This is probably because in China only nephrite was available before the eighteenth century. The highly treasured pieces of the emperors were creamy white in color, and translucent. The best jadeite today is imperial gem green. Starting in the mid 1700s, jadeite was transported from Burma to China. Eventually, the Burmese green jade came to be deemed superior.
Sources
Many believe that jade comes from China. Though some has come from China’s western region, the highest quality green jadeite has always come from Burma (Myanmar). Jade is also mined in Alaska, Canada, New Zealand, Siberia, Taiwan, Central America and other locations.
Fakes/Treatments
A number of gems are mistaken for or passed off as jade. These include serpentine, carnelian, aventurine quartz, glass, grossular garnet — also called Transvaal jade — soapstone and, recently, Australian chrysoprase. That is why it is important to have an independent grading report from a major laboratory if you are considering purchasing an important piece of jade. Watch out for terms like Korean jade, Canadian jade, or new jade, which are usually not jade.
Dyes and bleaching are not acceptable ways of treating jadeite. The only acceptable treatment method for jade is waxing it after the stone has been polished. Surface waxing is considered part of the traditional finishing of jadeite. Some dealers use an “A through C” treatment system. Type A jadeite has not been treated in any way except surface waxing. Type B jade has been soaked in chemical bleaches and/or acids and impregnated with a clear polymer resin. This results in significantly improving the transparency and color of the material. Type C jade has been artificially stained or dyed.
Colors
Jade occurs in a myriad of colors, chiefly green, lavender, yellow, black and white. Of course, rarest and most valuable is imperial jade, or green gems. However, a combination of two colors is deemed desirable by many in the trade. It is the chromium in jade that gives the stone its green color.
Grading Burmese Jadeite
The grading of jade is similar to that of faceted gemstones but has its own special considerations.
Color: This is the most important factor in the quality of jadeite. As a general rule, the greener and more saturated the piece of jade, the better. This is the same theory used in emeralds, tsavorite, demantoids and other green gems. Small amounts of gray may also be present, but large amounts of it are not acceptable. The color should also be even to the eyes, not splotchy or mottled.
The ideal tone is medium. If the tone is too light, the green will not be intense. If too dark, it affects the transparency and can “black out.”
Translucency: The most desirable jadeite is translucent or semitransparent. The higher the translucency, the more valuable the jade. Most jade does not have the transparency of a colored gemstone. Opaque jadeite is considered less valuable. One should be able to see the inside of the gem; it should not have the opacity of a stone like turquoise.
Clarity/Texture: The cleaner the jadeite, the better. The finest jadeite has no inclusions or ones that are hard to see with the naked eye. Most jadeite has some inclusions, which is acceptable if they are not predominant. One may find blotchy areas, veins, specks, spots and clouds in jadeite. Black inclusions are considered a negative in jade. Also negative are inclusions that break the surface or major inclusions that run through the stone. The best way to check the clarity of jadeite is with a penlight or simply by placing the jadeite between your eyes and a light source.
Texture is linked to transparency; the finer the texture, the higher the transparency. Texture will range from fine to coarse. One should seek a stone with an even, not a blotchy, texture.
Cutting/Finish/Size: Burmese jadeite is most frequently cut into cabochons or double cabochons with convex bottoms. Because the gem is cut to maximize color, Burmese jadeite is not always symmetrical or perfectly calibrated. Just as with star rubies and star sapphires, the domes should not be too high or too flat. Polish is important with jadeite, because the higher the polish, the better the luster and depth of color. Top jadeite possesses an almost watery luster.
Prices
Many dealers say jadeite is less expensive in the United States than in Asia. Like most gemstones, the larger the piece of jade, the more valuable it is. Burma jadeite is bought and sold by the individual piece according to millimeter sizes. The most common sizes are 8 x 10 mm, 10 x 14 mm and 13 x 18 mm. The 8 x 10s are usually 2 to 3 carats. According to The Guide (www.gemguide.com), top material around 8 x 10 mm in size can wholesale for $2,000 to $3,000 per carat. In the 10 x 14 mm size, the price per piece increases by a factor of four. Top gem green bangles, beads and carvings can start at $10,000 and rise rapidly in price.
Summary
By marketing Burmese jadeite, the jeweler can reach both the collector and the jewelry market. Burmese jadeite can become a passion, and clients may continually return to see your new pieces. Just ask the Chinese emperors.
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