RAPAPORT... Colossal crystal sculptures adorning outdoor public spaces throughout Tucson emphasize the importance of gem shows to this region. Aficionados mark theircalendars yearly for the pilgrimage to the eponymous Tucson Gem and Mineral Shows. The resulting annual migration for gem lovers and merchants balloons the population of this Southwestern town by tens of thousands of visitors for a couple of weeks each February. Douglas Hucker, American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) chief executive officer (CEO), said, “Over the years, these shows have become indispensable for those trading in colored gemstones.”
This year’s luxury Centurion Show, which preceded the trading at the GemFair, held February 6 to 10, showcased innovative designer collections, often including a prominent use of red gold, interpreted in contemporary proportions and styles, and bold designs boasting five or more colored stones on one piece of jewelry. Rami Uziel, vice president of Rina Limor for J.R. Gold Designs, commented: “We were pleasantly surprised at the overall turnout for Centurion. Expectations were not high considering current economic conditions. Our Calypso Collection was especially well received.”
TREATMENTS ADDRESSED
The buzz around town concerned the use of sophisticated gem treatments and the necessity for disclosure all along the pipeline. As treatments become more highly engineered, their detection has become nearly impossible at times. As a result, intensive training sessions, such as the Accredited Gemologists Association’s (AGA) “New Treatment And Detection Techniques” moderated by an international panel of professionals, were well attended. AGTA offered two other related seminars, “Identifying Diamond Treatments” and “Identifying Ruby,” both facilitated by Gemological Institute of America (GIA) instructor Andy Lucas.
AGA’s Antoinette Matlins said, “The acceptance of treatments has increased globally and we saw an increasing number of treated gemstones. I expect this trend to continue. I think we will see more gemstone varieties being treated, and an increasing number of new technologies being applied to the treatment field. I foresee this resulting in lower, in some cases much lower, prices for ‘attractive alternatives’ to natural gems or gems treated by costlier methods.”
This preoccupation with gem treatments was emphasized on the trading floors also, where several exhibitors prominently displayed cases boasting “All-Natural, Untreated Stones.”
FLUORESCENT DIAMONDSOne of the more controversial topics debated involved methodology for color-grading fluorescent diamonds, sparking animated dialogue, according to panel moderator and gemologist, JCK’s gemstone editor Gary Roskin. According to gemologist-author Matlins, who chaired that conference, lighting units that totally eliminate UV light may be available soon, and could provide lighting to grade inherent body color — void of UV light — and also the perceived color resulting from the presence of UV fluorescence. Matlins remarked that while the trade may resist new color-grading nomenclature, benefits could outweigh shortcomings. She notes that positive comments on fluorescence might reduce “the prejudice that now pervades the marketplace against fluorescent diamonds.”
The recent concern over irradiated topaz wore heavily on the minds of professionals who listened attentively to an AGTA- and Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC)-sponsored presentation entitled “NRC: What You Need to Know About Irradiated Gemstones.” The Nuclear Regulatory Commission’s (NRC) Joe DeCicco answered questions after the presentation, providing dealers with a more thorough understanding of compliance. DeCicco stressed that entities that seek to import irradiated gemstones must ensure that those stones were initially possessed by an entity that holds a possession license from a state authorized by the NRC or an NRC-licensed entity.
With the spotlight on gem treatments, this was the year for dealers to put things in writing. Tucson 2008 introduced AGTA’s JewelFolio, a custom-created hardbound portfolio that articulates the value components of a specific colored stone, including determination of origin when possible. To enhance the consumer’s appreciation of a gem, the folio also includes richly illustrated data surrounding the history and lore of the species and is individually numbered.
The AGTA Gemological Testing Center (GTC) mobile laboratory set up shop a day prior to the opening of GemFair and provided several services, including tanzanite grading reports, gemstone identification and country of origin reports for sapphire, emerald and ruby, which remain a hot issue. Richard Hughes, AGTA GTC gemological administrator, added, “We were so busy we were unable to get out much.”
At the Worldwide Gem & Jewelry Show, the GIA offered its Show Service Lab, staffed by senior GIA gemologists, in response to previous requests for on-site gem identification and country of origin reports, according to Tom Moses, senior vice president of GIA Laboratory and Research.
THE GOODSBuyers had plenty of options at Tucson, where finished goods and diamonds are becoming a major force. Away from the hub, at the Globe-X Gem & Mineral Shows, some buyers looking to stay ahead of the curve discovered underexploited goods that have yet to peak in popularity and price. There, vendors of Indian Ocean blue coral beads found brisk business.
At both the Gem & Jewelry Exchange (GJX) tents, where a carnival atmosphere sometimes prevails, and the AGTA GemFair across the road, several trends unfolded simultaneously. Custom designers and mass manufacturers offered collections of multicolored jewelry, where five, six or more different colored stones on a single item stood in stark contrast to 2007’s neutrals-to-brown-toned jewels. And the popularity of rough-hewn stones and crystal rough in fine jewelry pieces mushroomed as well. Diamonds and colored gemstones in the rough found favor with designers who create for a clientele who are apparently fine-art connoisseurs.
Pearl dealers understanding the continued strength of their market brought Vietnam Akoyas to the show. Baggins Inc. had interesting Vietnam pearls that, while smallish — 6.5 mm to 8.5 mm in diameter — had magnificent luster and were hefty for their size. Their pastel, multicolored strands of yellow, green, peachy-pink and lavender cultured pearls displayed pure spectral hues in distinctly clean colors.
Edward Boehm, president of JOEB Enterprises, pointed out that high-quality Mozambique tourmaline and morganite were offered this year. Additionally, a richly saturated aquamarine in tones not previously seen was responsible for a price hike in those goods. According to Boehm, the action is not over when the GemFair and GJX close. Numerous mineral shows that continue for another week or two are largely responsible for setting prices later on for gems cut from that rough.
The goods traded at this year’s fair foretold of a colorful season ahead, and for the adventurous collectors, a rough-hewn one as well.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - March 2008. To subscribe click here.