Rapaport Magazine
Style & Design

Elegance in bloom

Rose-cut diamonds are in demand for their timeless, subtle beaauty.

By Rachael Taylor

In Cartier’s latest high-jewelry collection, Sixième Sens par Cartier, you will find a secret rose-cut diamond. In addition to the cluster of rose-cut trillions lighting up its Phaan cocktail ring, there is one more hidden beneath its 8.20-carat central ruby.

The architects of this ring will tell you that this is not a frivolous display of haute-joaillerie excess, but rather a clever gemological trick. The positioning of the rose-cut diamond improves the lighting beneath the ruby, thus enhancing its color.

Understated beauty is a concept that has threaded through the history of this cut; from delivering masculine shimmer for maharajas, to playfully throwing shards of color across the faces of candlelit Victorian women.

Today, its soft power is still in vogue with a contemporary crowd. Designer Ellis Mhairi Cameron, who works with brown and orange rose-cut diamonds, has been inundated with orders for both male and female styles. “With rose cuts, they can go for bigger stones, without the design being as flashy as a brilliant cut,” she says.

Omi Privé has similarly responded to “an uptick in desire” driven by demand for vintage styles. However, the brand argues that rose-cut diamonds are not only capable of understated shine — they also have a larger surface area, which adds depth and extreme sparkle.

Ellis Mhairi CameronDrop earrings in 14-karat gold with mixed-cut diamonds, including rose cuts. ellismhairicameron.com

Arman SarkisyanDiamond bracelet in 18-karat gold and oxidized silver. armansarkisyan.com

Van Cleef & ArpelsVintage Ballerina brooch in 18-karat gold, diamond, ruby and emerald, circa 1943. vancleefarpels.com

michelle fantaciKey charm in 14-karat yellow gold and enamel with rose-cut diamonds. michellefantaci.com

CartierPhaan ring in 18-karat gold with diamonds and rubies. cartier.com

Omi PrivéRing with an oval, 3.05-carat, pink sapphire in 18-karat yellow gold, accented by round rose-cut diamonds and round diamonds. omiprive.com

Stephen SilverHoop earring (only one shown from pair) in 18-karat gold and diamonds. shsilver.com

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - September 2021. To subscribe click here.