Rapaport Magazine
Industry

Variation on a Theme

A new fancy shape combines the best of two classics for a new cut that’s positively brilliant

By Phyllis Schiller
I grew up in the diamond industry,” states Israel Itzkowitz, president of diamond manufacturing firm Quadamas, Inc., based in Los Angeles. He cut his first diamond at the age of 13. His fascination with well-cut diamonds, he says, is as natural to him “as breathing.” His reputation in the diamond industry was solidified in 1980 when he and Bezalel Ambar created the princess cut, which they sold branded as the Quadrillion. But his affinity for square cuts didn’t end there.

“I have always been intrigued with the Asscher cut and the emerald cut,” Itzkowitz says, describing the distinctive cut corners as “very attractive and appealing.” But he felt the cuts were lacking in brilliancy “because the facets are parallel to the girdles.” Determined to create a “brilliant Asscher cut,” in mid-2008, Itzkowitz began to experiment with positioning the princess facets on an Asscher cut. The result, after months of trial and error, was the Asscher Cut Princess™ (AcP). The patent-pending diamond, which debuted a year and a half ago, has garnered top results in the categories of brilliance, dispersion and scintillation in diamond light performance tests conducted by Independent Gemological Laboratories (IGL).

A Cut Above

The AcP has Asscher facets on the crown and princess facets on the pavilion — a total of 81 facets — with round cut angles. The diamonds, which are being cut in Tel Aviv, follow a very strict formula to achieve maximum brilliance rather than maximum yield. Stones are available in I to J color and better, with SI2 or above clarity, in sizes from 3.1 mm and larger calibrated. 

The AcP is available as loose diamonds as well as in a bridal collection with a choice of bands and semimounts. Retail prices start from $3,500 and are, Itzkowitz says, “very competitive with similar looks in bridal jewelry.” There is also a fashion collection of earrings and pendants. Jewelers have the choice to buy the diamonds loose and set them in their own designs or buy the finished jewelry.

Marketing Strategies

In terms of marketing the diamond, Itzkowitz feels the AcP has a natural place in the bridal market, “which is a segment that is still doing okay even in such a tough economy as we are experiencing these days.” The diamond is being targeted to high-end jewelers and sold on an exclusive regional basis. Stones of a carat or larger are accompanied by a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) certificate. Promotional material is being created and advertising campaigns will include radio/TV, print and internet promotions, which can be tailored to suit regional needs of jewelers

Article from the Rapaport Magazine - October 2010. To subscribe click here.

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