RAPAPORT...Long ago, all transparent red stones were called ruby — a derivative of “rubber” in Latin, simply meaning red stone. Surprisingly, until about 100 years ago, well-respected gemologists of their day might have privately confessed that they couldn’t always render a definite separation between ruby and similar-looking red stones. All that changed, however, with the evolution of accurate gemological instruments that provide absolute gemstone identification. The most famous example of an unintended misnomer is the kingpin of the Imperial State Crown of England. The 170-carat, chicken egg-sized red gem known as the Black Prince’s Ruby since medieval times turns out to be a red spinel.
Ruby, a corundum mineral composed of aluminum oxide (Al2O3) owes its rich cherry tint to chromium. The finest ruby color, long referred to as Pigeon’s Blood by the Burmese, is a pure intense red with a slight blue modifier. Pigeon’s Bood ruby has been considered the pinnacle of desirability for centuries.
Richard W. Hughes, acknowledged ruby and sapphire expert, breaks it down further. “When speaking of facet-grade, better-quality ruby, over 90 percent comes from Burma. Within Burma, perhaps 80 percent is from Mong Hsu, 15 percent from Mogok, and 5 percent from other localities such as Nanyazeik. But good ruby is extremely rare. Facet-grade ruby is produced from only a handful of sources around the world. None produce enough to even come close to competing with Burma. Ruby is an extremely rare gem, even in Burma.”
POLITICAL TURMOILMyanmar, formerly Burma, home to the lion’s share of the world’s ruby supply, is embroiled in political turmoil, provoking the ire of the international community. Jewelry trade associations and retailers have responded with a call to action against Myanmar’s human rights violations by releasing statements of embargo for Burmese gems.
Peggy Jo Donahue, Jewelers of America (JA) director of public affairs, disclosed an official statement from First Lady Laura Bush released by the White House applauding this unified stand. “I urge others in the industry — to join in this important effort and refuse to have the trade in Burmese gems prop up the Burmese regime. Consumers throughout the world should consider the implications of their purchase — every Burmese stone bought, cut, polished and sold sustains an illegitimate, repressive regime.”
The boycott is meant to send a tough message where it counts to Myanmar’s ruling authorities. Off the record, dealers worry about the potency of this self-imposed moratorium on Burmese gems. When these goods are shipped elsewhere for cutting, some say it’s nearly impossible to track the country of origin. Others comment that halting the export of ruby and jade from Myanmar will have little impact on the junta. Until this complex state of affairs gets sorted out, dealers are looking elsewhere to satisfy the demand for ruby. And there are plenty of regions to select from.
OTHER SOURCESMadagascar, with its high volume of colored gemstones, including corundum in most colors, has been a fertile ruby source for more than 15 years. Ruby accounts for a fair share of Madagascar’s annual gem harvest. According to gemologist Charles Carmona,World Bank consultant to Madagascar, there are distinguishing features that separate the Madagascar from the Burmese ruby. Topping the list are fluorescence and inclusions, Carmona says. “It all goes back to the geologic environment in which the stones formed. Due to their different trace element chemistry, most Burma stones fluoresce strongly, whereas most Madagascar stones do not. The inclusion-scape is very different also.”
Gary Bowersox, Afghan gem authority, president of GeoVision, believes, “the next best quality of ruby after the Burmese is Tajikistan for quality, with a second place to Afghanistan.” According to a report on Bowersox’ website, www.gems-afghan.com, the fertile region of Jegdalek, Afghanistan, boasts some of the world’s oldest ruby mines, dating back more than 6,500 years, yet they remain comparatively unknown as a gem locale.
Jennifer Heigl, Columbia Gem House and Trigem Designs creative manager, reports the company acquires its quality ruby from Malawi. According to Heigl, it’s essential that their “Malawi goods are totally untreated — all natural.” Furthermore, Heigl adds, “We deal in fair trade, conflict-free goods in regions where the trade contributes to the support of local schools and hospitals.”
Designer Mia Katrin of Jewel Couture LLC has traveled the world buying gems in locations such as India and Sri Lanka. Ruby briolettes and beads feature prominently in her sumptuous designs favored by Hollywood celebrities. Katrin’s ruby rough hails from Kenya and is cut in India. Her clients adore ruby, so she pairs the stone appropriately with high-karat gold and platinum. The ruby’s transparency, or lack of it, contributes to the final price of her stylish designs. “I have a necklace of transparent deep red ruby and diamond briolettes in 18- to 22-karat gold for $9,500, but also a necklace of large, deep red opaque ruby briolettes, with substantial 18-karat gold bars for $3,600. The client has a choice.”
Manufacturers are also turning to Thailand for ruby, notes Christine Epps, marketing director for Fire & Ice. The company’s Thai ruby crab pin is a big hit, Epps says. “Our customers love our unique ruby jewelry, such as the 14-karat yellow gold ruby and crab pin/pendant, because it’s more of a collector’s item. It features the Maryland crab, and because we are based in Baltimore, our traveling customers purchase the pin/pendant as a souvenir.”
Corundum collector Will Heierman has been comparing corundum crystals with other mineralogists worldwide for 20 years. Origin determination for corundum will be a featured theme on his revised Corunduminium website. According to Heierman, “I am involved with the Wyoming miners, and we could supply stones in commercial quantities as early as next year.” With no apparent end to the Myanmar imbroglio, Heierman points to Vietnam for ruby, where he knows many of the dealers and cutters. “Vietnam — Luc Yen, Yen Bai Province — produces beautiful gems among trainloads of subgem crystals.” “I do think Vietnam may become ‘the next Burma,’” Heierman predicts.
Article from the Rapaport Magazine - January 2008. To subscribe click here.